Qashqai connect manual boost. McCULLOCH MOTORS CORP. AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Flocked wire screen. STARTER TYPE: McCulloch automatic rewind on left side. OIL PUMP: Automatic with manual override. McCulloch two-cycle chain saw mix oil. It does not cover later models like Pro Mac 10-10, or Pro Mac 7-10 but many of the repairs and details do still apply to those later saws. Browse more service manual & McCulloch products. Powered by Shopify and made by Reconfigure.
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Mcculloch Chainsaw Pro Mac 10-10 Manual Pdf
So, I was looking at Craigslist last night and stumbled upon this. According to the seller, it came from an estate sale, so he didn't know much about it. He said he couldn't keep it running, because he was flooding it out.
So, I bought it, brought it home, put a new spark plug in it, dumped the gas out and put in some Trufuel pre-mix 40:1, pulled the choke halfway out and it fired and ran on the very first pull!!! It idles like a champ, and burned through a 20' aspen log about as fast as my Husqvarna 460. I doubt this saw ever saw much use. I haven't tested the compression, but pulling with the kill switch on, I can feel substantial compression, for whatever that is worth! Anyway, figured I'd pick ya'll's brains for anything I should know about this saw. I've surfed a little on it and found out this particular 10-10 was made between '71 and '75. It has an oil button, but if I'm reading correctly online, this saw is an automatic oiler?
So, that has me baffled. I pointed the bar at a log and it wasn't leaving the tell-tale strip of oil like my Husq does, but I could see oil spattering off the chain in pretty much all directions? I paid $100 for it, which concerned me a bit knowing it's age, until I saw this thing. It is literally like new.
Anyway, I.think. it's a 20' bar, but I haven't counted the links to know for sure.
Mcculloch Chainsaw Manual Pro Mac 10-10 Image
Anyway, anything I should know about this thing before I cut a half-cord with it next weekend? The automatic oiler is inside the front mounted oil tank.It's an engine impulse activated piston pump that pumps as long as the engine is running. You have to remove one screw in the front of the tank and remove the cover to gain access to the pump.The adjustment is a screw that limits the throw on the pump piston,longer stroke more oil. However before you go to all that trouble dump all the oil and fill the tank about half full of kerosine or diesel fuel.Remove the bar and chain and run the saw 5-10 minutes.It may or may not flush out any oil residue scum which turns to wax from sitting 20-30 years.Works more times than not.-Junk yard dawg McCullocholigy 101. Congrats steveinutah, on an awesome piece of saw history I have about 9 10 series Macs, 4 are 10-10's.
IMO they are still the best model of saw ever built. Tho they don't have anti-vibe, the 10-10A is plenty smooth runner. I wear a good set of padded gloves if I am gonna run it a lot, and I don't have any tingling hands.
I have ran them when I started logging full time in the late 70's thru mid 80's, have cut a ton of wood with them and still do. Good set of earplugs will be your friend, but they are a cutting machine!! Looks like you got the old hardnose mac bar. Don't forget to grease your clutch drum bearing once in a while, for an all metal saw they are even not too bad on weight, even by today's standards.
They don't rev quite as high as a new saw, but with the bar buried they will keep up with any saw. Be respectful of the bar tip, no safety features.
The manual oiler override was a McC standard for many many years, if you got into pitchy wood or just needed extra oil a pump or two in the cut never hurt, especially with a non sprocket tip bar. Happy cutting. OK, so the on-going saga. I took the automatic oil pump apart today, cleaned it inside and out, replaced the two o-rings, reassembled and have spent the better part of the afternoon adjusting the oiler, replacing the cover, starting, testing, etc. The saw IS oiling. I can see oil running off the chain and down the bar after a minute or two of running the saw with the RPMs up, I see oil draining all over the dang place from under the clutch cover, but it still doesn't sling off the tip very good.
Just a small, light strip of oil on the log I aim it. The bar groove/channel and oiling ports in the bar are clean, by the way. The bar plates are on correctly, by the way. I've got the adjustment screw adjusted out probably 1.5 to 2 turns from all the way in when I reassembled. It doesn't look like there is that much adjustment room left. So, am I right to assume that with a 20' bar I'm just not going to get the sling of oil off the tip of the bar that I see on my other, more modern saws?