I also tried to fin the numbers on differential/trans/engine/loader. I found the numbers were located on a foil sticker on the inside of the right hood. Found what was left of it.
Please note that this manual only covers the loader, not the tractor. Models Covered: 770A loader for 1310, 1510 & 1710 Ford tractors. Domestic Shipping: This. Sep 21, 2014 - I'm about to embark on rebuilding the tilt cylinder on a Ford 770 loader that is on my Ford 1700 tractor. At the link below the gentleman.
Cannot read it. I could not find a number on the engine, but found some numbers on other parts. Here they are. Left side 31 3 70 C5 NN 4024 Y MH FoMoCo Transmission. Right side CC 40 CY NN 700o AN HH FoMoCo F/E Loader. (right side) 291591.
(left side) Where can I find the number of the diesel engine? Thank you and God bless.
Donald, I'm afraid that you will have to bite the bullet and buy a shop/service/repair manual for your tractor. Check sources on the internet. Ebay usually has a good selection.
The cheapest way to go is a download, but I personally prefer hard copy myself. I have difficulty finding information from downloads. You will want a searchable download if that's the route you choose to go. The tractor's model number, manufacture code, and serial number (3 sets of numbers) are stamped into the metal on a flat spot just above and behind the starter. These numbers may be obscured with paint, rust/corrosion, or dirt. You may have to clean them with a wire brush to be able to read them. The engine numbers will be found stamped into a machined surface on the right side down by where the engine mates up with the oil pan.
There are also raised casting numbers on the side of the engine. Donald, I'm afraid that you will have to bite the bullet and buy a shop/service/repair manual for your tractor. Check sources on the internet. Ebay usually has a good selection. The cheapest way to go is a download, but I personally prefer hard copy myself. I have difficulty finding information from downloads.
You will want a searchable download if that's the route you choose to go. The tractor's model number, manufacture code, and serial number (3 sets of numbers) are stamped into the metal on a flat spot just above and behind the starter. These numbers may be obscured with paint, rust/corrosion, or dirt. You may have to clean them with a wire brush to be able to read them. The engine numbers will be found stamped into a machined surface on the right side down by where the engine mates up with the oil pan. There are also raised casting numbers on the side of the engine. Welcome to the wonderful world of older used tractor ownership.
You need to check more carefully (a strong light helps) for id numbers on your tractor (they are stamped into it) If there's no more info on the right side flat spot, check the corresponding spot on the left side. I see the service manual for the 420 runs in the $140 range on Amazon. Meanwhile, the owner/operator manual you have will have oodles of service/maintenance procedures that will need to be done to prevent further degradation to the tractor systems. A couple of words of caution. Regardless of what the seller told you about the tractor.assume he only 'fixed' the immediate problem that prevented him doing the job he had gotten on the tractor to do.he did no regular maintenance on the machine.
Assume the tractor set for long periods of time as using it became (a) harder, and (b) he wanted it sold before he needed to do expensive repairs. REGARDING THE 3 POINT HYDRAULICS: Do not move any screws or bolts on this except the fluid level check port, the drain plug, and the filler port as the others can let loose pieces and parts loose into the mechanism.
Lastly, although you said you plan to do all the work on the tractor yourself, I have found that one of the best tools in my tool box is my new bff.a tractor mechanic recommended by the shop that's serviced my vehicles for the last 20+years. In fact the owner of the auto shop has his 1965 David Brown diesel in that mechanics shop today as are the new aftermarket fenders for my Ford 2000 for painting (the #2 man in the shop does painting nights and weekends). In my area I have good luck at the New Holland parts counter, but the service department is of no use to me due to inexperience and disinterest in helping to conserve (I will not admit to restoring it, as it's a working tractor) my 50 year old Ford. Welcome to the wonderful world of older used tractor ownership. You need to check more carefully (a strong light helps) for id numbers on your tractor (they are stamped into it) If there's no more info on the right side flat spot, check the corresponding spot on the left side.
I see the service manual for the 420 runs in the $140 range on Amazon. Meanwhile, the owner/operator manual you have will have oodles of service/maintenance procedures that will need to be done to prevent further degradation to the tractor systems. A couple of words of caution.
Regardless of what the seller told you about the tractor.assume he only 'fixed' the immediate problem that prevented him doing the job he had gotten on the tractor to do.he did no regular maintenance on the machine. Assume the tractor set for long periods of time as using it became (a) harder, and (b) he wanted it sold before he needed to do expensive repairs. REGARDING THE 3 POINT HYDRAULICS: Do not move any screws or bolts on this except the fluid level check port, the drain plug, and the filler port as the others can let loose pieces and parts loose into the mechanism. Lastly, although you said you plan to do all the work on the tractor yourself, I have found that one of the best tools in my tool box is my new bff.a tractor mechanic recommended by the shop that's serviced my vehicles for the last 20+years. In fact the owner of the auto shop has his 1965 David Brown diesel in that mechanics shop today as are the new aftermarket fenders for my Ford 2000 for painting (the #2 man in the shop does painting nights and weekends). In my area I have good luck at the New Holland parts counter, but the service department is of no use to me due to inexperience and disinterest in helping to conserve (I will not admit to restoring it, as it's a working tractor) my 50 year old Ford. Click to expand.Thanks for the info.
I bought the tractor, fully aware of the problems that needed fixing. That is how I got it cheap. I drove it home all the way on the shoulder for 40 miles. Everyone wanted to charge $200 for delivery just for 40 miles.
So I saved money and enjoyed the trip. I worked it on my property for a little bit. Now some of the known issues have come to the surface. Again, that was expected.
770 Ford Tractor Loader
The leaks on the rams, old hoses, and bottom connection on the resevoir got worse. The hydraulic fluid got low and one of the old hose connections sprung a bigger leak. So I parked it on solid ground. Now I need to replace all of the hoses and I believe I can dissassemble the rams and replace all O rings. I bought 5 gallons of 303 for $21.99. According to your info, there should be a procedural step to doing this so I won't get any garbage in the pump. If you know how and what I should do in order, please let me know.
Thank you and God bless. Yes, I think you will find 770 is the model number of the loader itself. You can use the search feature here to see if there's info available but.you mentioned you have leaking cylinders, hoses that need replacing, and somewhere in that process you need to make sure the reservoir is properly filled with no air in the lines or pistons.
I think if you now ask for advice on the best sequence to do this, the guys who are 770 fel savey will pick up and give advice. Also, I believe you mentioned that the 1 cylinder on the bucket dump is a modification, so, if it is one of the leakers, does it have any id on it? Did the guy you bought from install it? Might be helpful to know this. I don't know what it takes to rebuild a leaking hydraulic cylinder, are the parts open source or propriatory?
You've got me curious now, so I'm off to google. Click to expand.Thank you very much. Now I am very confused about my tractor. I found the rest of the numbers and cannot find them in the parts list.
I called the Ford tractor place and they were perplexed. So here are the 3 lines of alphanumericc on the flat portion behind the starter. B886256 OE26 D1014C According to this it is an allpurpose ag-engine (not industrial) of the 4000 series (not a 420) made May 26, 1970, but the 4000 series were not made then. Diesel, indepedant PTO, HP transmission. And was built in Brildon, England. And has a 770 loader on it labelled Ford 420. My head hurts.
OK, go back and read what RCWELLS said about the origins and evolution of the 420 on your original thread, that will explain to some extent what the NH dealer told you. I've never heard of a factory in Brildon.I do know there was one in Basildon, England. The information on the flat, is on the case of the clutch housing (as I recall) so if it was ever traded out, the data would then not be original to the tractor. Www says all over that 420's were built 75-78. Fact: Ford used serial numbers sequentially regardless of what the next tractor coming down the line was.
Fact: Fords built in England, Belgium, Brazil, and maybe other countries did not use the same norms for id as was used here in the USA. That's an awfully high serial number for a 70 build date and 80 would have been an 0 also. So, is this another model that someone painted and badged as a 420, has someone replaced the transmission/clutch housing, or is this just a case of the different id's from the English factory? Question: any evidence of blue or gray paint under the yellow? How long did the previous owner have the tractor?
Over the years some people including some Ford dealers played fast and loose with paint and badges. Usually badging to a newer rather than an older model. There may be some good news buried in all the blurring of the heritage of your '420'. (Don't expect that ford would have made a special engine for an industrial tractor.
They would have most likely used an off the shelf existing and proven engine. Ditto other components. 75-78 is an awfully short production run, normally ford was doing 10 year production runs, looks like they were maybe using up existing stock as the 3 and 4000 production run stopped after the 74 model year. Ford was frugal, for example if an engine for a 3000 had leaky cylinder walls, they would sleeve it down to use it in a 2000) On your original thread a few of the guys I respect suggested that the 420 was an amalgam of 4000 and 3000 parts. This may be good news as the IT FO-31 shop manual may be a good research tool for you as it covers both 3000 and 4000 tractors.
Also IT prints a 770 FEL shop manual as well. Both in the $30 range from Amazon or Ebay.